One Harbour Road at Grand Hyatt Hong Kong takes Cantonese classic dishes and presents them in a ‘home-cooked’ style. Dishes here feature a lot of premium ingredients such as crab claw, wagyu beef and the finest fish from across the world, and let their inherent flavours shine through. This means you won’t find molecular foam or dry ice steaming off the plate; this is all about the taste!
Obviously, with this being Grand Hyatt’s flagship restaurant, dining here never really becomes homely (unless your home is a mansion). Instead, it takes cute touches like mismatching tableware and adds them to a luxurious dining room with soft carpets, a central water fountain and floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over Victoria Harbour. The iconic buildings of Kowloon are visible on the opposite bank and look particularly impressive around dusk.
Although One Harbour Road hasn’t been recognised by the team at the Michelin Guide, if you ask locals for a list of the best fine dining Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong, this place is often mentioned. A big reason for this is the Executive Chef Li Shu-tim, who has been in the kitchen at One Harbour Road for generations. Chef Tim could have retired years ago, but due to so many regular customers begging him to stay, he keeps deferring retirement for another year so he can be on hand to make sure his brand of honest food cooked with top quality ingredients is strictly adhered to.
But don’t be under the impression that dishes at One Harbour Road aren’t technical. In fact, to produce some courses, it takes a whole day to prepare, but the philosophy here is that fancy plating or modern gimmicks don’t add to the flavour of the food.
The wagyu beef, for example, comes sizzling in a heated stone pot, with rich abalone sauce reduction and a slightly smoky taste, this is one of the finest ways to enjoy the smooth and tender texture of wagyu. When accompanied by crunchy green peppers and onion it makes a fantastic dish.
The drunken shrimp are presented most plainly of all: just four plump, pink shrimp still in the shell and resting on the plate. However, these plain old shrimp were probably the tastiest we have ever tried – in any country and in any kind of cuisine. The rice wine kept the flesh juicy, fragrant and enhanced their natural flavour. Simple, honest food made with top quality ingredients.
The double-boiled Hawaiian papaya soup is a delightful combination of a range of ingredients, each spoonful offering a new adventure of taste and texture thanks to masses of crunchy bamboo pith, shitake mushroom, diced duck meat and dried ham.
Finally, a word about the wines. In our opinion, nowhere in Hong Kong has given so much attention to pairing wines with Chinese food, and there in-house French sommelier still works closely with Chef Tim to match the right wines to his classic dishes.
Due to the size of the dining room at One Harbour Road, it’s perfect for family gatherings, business lunches and it even has plenty of secluded little nooks for a more romantic meal. Best of all, every table gets to enjoy the stunning view of Victoria Harbour. Lunch at One Harbour Road will cost around HK$600 and dinner around HK$1,000 which is in line or a little lower than you can expect to pay at other five-star hotels downtown. There is an a la carte menu and a set course menu with optional wine pairing. There are also a range of dim sum set lunches, available from 12:00 to 14:30.
One Harbour Road
- Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon - Sat 12:00 - 14:30, Sun 11:30 - 15:00; Dinner: Mon - Sun 18:30 - 22:30
- Address: 7-8/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
- Tel: +852 2584 7722